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The Expert: Esther Lee

Asian-market super snack shopper; chef, Obelisk

By Emily Kaiser
The Washington Post
Sunday, June 15, 2003

FERMENTATION NATION: I love food. When I was growing up in Columbia, Md., my mom cooked mostly Korean stuff. I wanted to be like every other American kid, so I'd be kind of embarrassed when I opened the fridge and the smell of her kimchi would waft out. But now that I'm older, I appreciate it. At Obelisk, I sometimes make Korean lunches, and for home I get most of my groceries from Asian supermarkets.

PROPER SHOPPER: Of all the markets, I like Korean Korner in Kensington the best. It's the most consistent, and its produce is most always good and fresh. I also love their Asian snacks. They provide a nice change from your standard American junk food. Most of the stuff was inspired by American exports but tweaked to suit Asian tastes -- so the cuttlefish crackers taste a lot like Doritos, and the Yan Yan choco snacks are sort of like American cheese-and-cracker kits, only with sesame sticks and a chocolate spread that reminds me of Nutella.

CHOICE SWEETS: There's no end to sweets adapted to Asian tastes. By the registers, Asian grocers sell a yummy chewing gum that tastes of flowers; look for the label with the blossoms. The sodas are neat, too. They come in flavors like peach, coconut and tamarind, and they have narrower cans to fit Asian hands. On a hot day, try the bite-size mochi rice balls stuffed with vanilla ice cream, chewy on the outside, cold on the inside. But my favorites are the frozen melon bars; the best ones taste just like fresh melon.

SALT OF THE EARTH: For something truly Korean, try their ramen (I get either the Shin Ramyun or Neoguri brand) or anything with dried fish in it. If you usually have Lipton Cup O' Noodles, try the ramen and you'll never go back. I also like the small dried squid or pile fishes. Koreans eat them plain or as a side dish, shredded and tossed in sesame oil, soy sauce, garlic and hot pepper. For something simpler, wasabi peas and rice crackers wrapped in seaweed make lovely little cocktail snacks.

CROWDED HOUSE: It's best to go to these markets during the week. Even Koreans will pity you if you must go on a Sunday. On a weekend in kimchi-making season, from late September to late October, it can get crazy!

INTERNATIONAL CAN OF MYSTERY: Since everything is imported, it's important to check the dates for freshness. And sometimes there are packages for sale that even I don't recognize. If all else fails, read the ingredient labels: They're written in English. As told to Emily Kaiser.

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