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| The Expert: Sushi Chef By Emily Kaiser HEAD CHEF: I've been making sushi for 20 years. I trained in Osaka, Japan. After 10 years as the chef at Sushi-Ko in D.C., I helped Whole Foods develop its line of packaged sushi; that was eight years ago. I opened my own place, Kaz Sushi Bistro, in 1998. ADAPTATION: When I was little we only ate sushi on special occasions. These days, you can find sushi that's more casual and less expensive. It's been adapted to the American lifestyle. Originally, sushi was made-to-order and eaten right away, not meant to sit at a supermarket and be taken home. I'm happy that it's being brought to a larger audience; I just hope that people come back to restaurants to remind themselves of how sushi is supposed to taste. SUSHI SURVIVOR: There are a few tricks you can use to judge the quality of the packaged stuff. Obviously the fish should be fresh. It's tempting for supermarkets to use frozen fish because it's cheaper and often looks better in the case. For example, frozen tuna is brighter than fresh. It can be hard to tell the difference, but be wary of tuna or salmon that look artificially bright. It should not look neon pink. PACKING IT IN: Sometimes, supermarkets overcook the rice, then overpack it in sushi to keep it firm. You should always be able to see whole, individual grains of rice. And nigiri should be rectangular with nice clean edges, not round or shapeless like a golf ball. SWEET AND SOUR: Sushi rice is seasoned with a mixture of salt, sugar and vinegar. The ratios are up to the sushi chef, but sometimes supermarkets skimp and the rice tastes bland. THE SKINNY ON SEAWEED: I use thinner seaweed in my restaurant because it's easier to eat. Sometimes supermarkets use thicker seaweed because it is more durable. So long as it tastes good, either is fine. SEEING GREEN: The brand of soy sauce and the color of the wasabi and ginger are a matter of individual preference. I prefer fresh, brown ginger to the artificially colored pink stuff. Whole Foods' wasabi is darker than most because they color it with chlorophyll instead of artificial coloring. But it tastes almost the same. THE FINAL CUT: I'll only eat ready-made sushi if I'm really hungry. I like my sushi fresh. If I just need something to fill my stomach, I think I'd prefer a piece of pizza. As told to Emily Kaiser. |
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© 2001 - 2008 Emily Kaiser |
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