Superchefs’ Best Wine Bar Recipes The next step in the evolution of the American wine bar: star chefs making great food. Three big international talents—Daniel Boulud, Tony Mantuano and Luke Mangan—divulge their tastiest recipes. By Emily Kaiser
Food & Wine
April, 2008
A good wine bar can be like a speed dial to the wine world, allowing customers to quickly try dozens of styles. Unfortunately, many treat food as an afterthought, offering little more than charcuterie, cheese or the occasional panini. With only a few lonely shards of Parmesan cheese or slices of soppressata to try with a Carneros Pinot Noir, diners interested in learning more about pairings miss half the action.
But in the past year, the American wine bar has captured the imagination of a trio of outstanding chefs, all of whom have devised places where the menus, as well as the wine lists, explore favorite regions. Daniel Boulud’s new Bar Boulud in Manhattan focuses on the pâtés and bistro dishes, as well as the wines, of the Rhône Valley and Burgundy. Luke Mangan’s South Food + Wine Bar in San Francisco showcases the flavors of Australia and New Zealand. And Tony Mantuano’s forthcoming Enoteca Spiaggia in Miami’s South Beach will explore the food and wine of the Mediterranean. Ambitious as these spots are, all three have communal tables where customers can share tastes with each other, keeping the casual spirit of the wine bar alive.
TONY MANTUANO
Tony Mantuano, famed for his Italian-influenced cooking at Chicago’s Spiaggia, is opening Enoteca Spiaggia wine bar at the Todd Oldham–designed Fairfax Hotel in Miami’s South Beach later this year. Two wood-burning ovens will bake dishes like ricotta-filled crespelle (savory crêpes with marinara). The restaurant will also offer snacks on Oldham’s “Tidbit Trays,” which have built-in wineglass holders, such as Catalonian grilled leeks dipped in romesco sauce—perfect with cava.
The Fairfax Hotel, 1776 Collins Ave., Miami Beach.
Crespelle with Ricotta and Marinara
2004 Monte Antico
White Cheese Pizza with Ramps
2005 Marcarini Fontanazza Dolcetto d’Alba
Baby Leeks with Romesco Sauce
NV Avinyó Brut Cava
LUKE MANGAN
Australian chef Luke Mangan has apprenticed under two chefs renowned for their skill at wine pairings: Michel Roux of England’s Waterside Inn and Hermann Schneider of Melbourne’s legendary Two Faces. With South Food + Wine Bar in San Francisco, Mangan shows what’s possible in antipodean flavors, whether combining a fruity Huia Vineyards New Zealand Pinot Gris with spicy shrimp or the iconic Wynns Coonawarra Estate Australian Cabernet Sauvignon with lamb. 330 Townsend St., San Francisco; 415-974-5599.
Grilled Shrimp with Mangoes and Chile
2006 Huia Vineyards Pinot Gris
Barramundi with Tomato-Basil Salsa
2006 Seresin Estate Chardonnay
Lamb with Mint Chimichurri
2005 Wynns Coonawarra Estate; Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon
DANIEL BOULUD
On New Year’s Eve, renowned French chef Daniel Boulud opened Bar Boulud, a sleek Manhattan wine bar in an arched space meant to evoke a stone-walled wine cellar. To complement wine director Daniel Johnnes’s selections of vibrant Burgundy Meursaults and smoky Rhône Côte Rôties, Boulud serves bistro classics like skate wings stuffed with meaty mushrooms and exquisite pâtés and pastries, such as a creamy Gâteau Basque spiked with brandied cherries. 1900 Broadway, New York City; 212-595-0303.
Skate with Mushrooms and Hazelnuts
2004 La Vigne d’Or Meursault Grands Charrons
Gargantuan Gougères
2006 Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon; Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine
Gâteau Basque
2005 M. Chapoutier Muscat de Rivesaltes
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